Part 2: How to Identify Vintage Jewelry: A Collector’s Guide — Examining Materials in Antique and Vintage Jewelry

When identifying antique and vintage jewelry, one of the most important aspects to examine is the materials used. Different time periods favored distinct metals, gemstones, and even synthetic or unconventional materials, which can help date a piece and determine its authenticity. Let’s take a closer look at how materials evolved throughout different jewelry eras.

Georgian Era (1714-1837): Handcrafted Gold and Unique Gem Settings

Jewelry from the Georgian period was entirely handcrafted, making it rare and highly sought after today. Gold was the dominant metal, often alloyed into different karats. Silver was also popular, particularly for gemstone settings. Platinum was not yet in use. Diamonds were typically set in closed-back mountings, and popular gemstones included topaz, garnet, and amethyst. A hallmark of Georgian jewelry is the use of foil backing to enhance gemstone color and brilliance.

 Victorian Era (1837-1901): Romantic Gold and Mourning Jewelry

In the Early Victorian period (1837–1850), jewelry often featured romantic motifs such as hearts, flowers, and cameos, reflecting the sentimental nature of the era. Gold, especially yellow gold, was commonly used, often crafted with intricate repoussé (raised designs) and filigree (delicate twisted wirework). Popular gemstones included diamonds, garnets, rubies, and topaz, while seed pearls were frequently incorporated for added refinement. These pieces were often ornate, with a soft, romantic feel, characteristic of the emotional connection Victorians had to their jewelry.

In the Mid-Victorian period (1850–1861), the death of Prince Albert led to the rise of mourning jewelry, which was often crafted from materials like jet, onyx, and vulcanite a dark, matte stones reflecting the somber mood of the time. Rose gold gained popularity for its softer, pinkish hue, and rose-cut diamonds became a common choice for their subtle sparkle. By the Late Victorian period (1861–1901), jewelry became lighter and more celebratory, with brighter gemstones like diamonds and opals becoming more common. Throughout the Victorian era, gold remained the primary metal, and intricate designs, combined with the availability of gold due to the California Gold Rush, allowed for more detailed, accessible jewelry.

Edwardian Era (1901-1915): The Rise of Platinum and Delicate Filigree

Jewelry craftsmanship flourished in the Edwardian era, characterized by intricate designs featuring platinum, which became widely used due to its strength and malleability. White gold also made its debut. Diamonds were the most popular gemstone, often set in delicate filigree patterns. Other favored stones included aquamarine, peridot, and pearls. Edwardian pieces often have a lace-like appearance due to the advanced metalworking techniques of the time.

A defining characteristic of Edwardian jewelry is its use of millegrain detailing, which is a tiny bead-like metalwork along the edges of settings, adding a delicate and refined texture. The airy, lace-inspired designs were made possible by platinum’s durability, allowing for intricate openwork patterns. Pearls were especially favored, as they symbolized purity and elegance, often adorning necklaces, earrings, and tiaras.

Despite the dominance of platinum, yellow gold remained in use, particularly in combination pieces. Rings, brooches, and pendants often featured a mix of diamonds and colored gemstones, with sapphires and aquamarines being particularly desirable. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in Edwardian jewelry remain unmatched, making these pieces highly collectible today.

 Art Deco Era (1920s-1930s): Bold Geometric Designs and Platinum Dominance

Art Deco jewelry, popular in the 1920s and 1930s, is known for its bold, geometric designs and clean lines. The style embraced symmetrical patterns, often featuring sharp angles and streamlined shapes. Platinum was the metal of choice due to its strength and ability to hold gemstones securely, though white gold was also commonly used. Jewelry pieces often showcased a striking contrast of gemstones, with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies being the most popular. These gemstones were set in innovative ways, enhancing their brilliance and color, while materials like onyx, coral, pearls, and jade were also used, frequently carved or arranged in intricate patterns that complemented the geometric style.

One of the defining features of Art Deco jewelry is the use of improved cutting techniques that led to sharp, brilliant cuts, which created a highly reflective and dazzling effect. This allowed for greater clarity and precision in the gemstones, further emphasizing the bold, modern aesthetic of the era. When identifying Art Deco jewelry, look for clean, angular designs, the use of contrasting gemstones, and the application of advanced cutting methods, all of which set this style apart from earlier, more ornate periods in jewelry history.

Retro Era (1940s-1950s): Bold Designs in Rose and Yellow Gold

The Retro era was heavily influenced by World War II and its impact on material availability. Due to wartime metal restrictions, platinum became scarce, leading to a resurgence of yellow and rose gold, often in lower karats. Jewelers used copper alloys to create the signature warm hues of Retro gold.

Designs from this era are characterized by bold, three-dimensional forms, including oversized bows, scrolls, and asymmetrical motifs. Jewelers utilized illusion settings to make small gemstones appear larger, maximizing visual impact. Due to the war's disruption of the gemstone trade, large semi-precious stones such as citrine, amethyst, aquamarine, and topaz became popular, while synthetic rubies and sapphires were commonly used.

Mid-Century to Modern Vintage (1960s-1980s): Unconventional Materials and Experimental Styles

Jewelry design in the mid-century to modern vintage period saw an evolution in both craftsmanship and material use. Yellow and white gold remained popular, often accented with platinum or palladium. Sterling silver also gained prominence, particularly in designer and artisan jewelry.

Gemstones such as turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, and tiger’s eye became sought after, reflecting the bohemian and naturalistic trends of the 1970s. The use of diamonds continued to rise, with innovative setting techniques such as cluster and tension settings emerging. Statement pieces, including large cocktail rings and bold, sculptural necklaces, defined the era. Bakelite, enamel, and resin were sometimes used in playful or artistic designs, particularly in costume jewelry.

The 1980s saw a return to opulence, with oversized gold pieces, chunky chain necklaces, and vibrant gemstone combinations dominating fashion trends.

 

Testing for Authenticity: Simple Material Tests

When handling antique and vintage jewelry, there are a few simple ways to test materials:

• Bakelite Test: Rub the piece vigorously and smell for a formaldehyde scent—an indicator of authentic bakelite.
• Gold Testing: Use a magnet—real gold is non-magnetic. For more accuracy, an acid test can determine gold purity.
• Gemstone Check: Natural stones often have slight inclusions, while synthetic stones tend to be flawless. A jeweler’s loupe can help examine internal characteristics.
• Metal Hallmarks: Many antique pieces feature hallmarks indicating metal content and origin, which can provide valuable dating information.  

Conclusion

Understanding the materials used in antique and vintage jewelry is crucial for authentication and appreciation. Whether you're a collector, seller, or enthusiast, recognizing the characteristics of different eras can enhance your ability to identify genuine pieces and appreciate the craftsmanship of the past. Stay tuned for the next part of our series, where we’ll delve into additional elements of antique and vintage jewelry identification!

In the next installment of How to Identify Vintage Jewelry: A Collector’s Guide, we’ll explore how to look for hallmarks and maker’s marks, which can help uncover a piece’s origin, authenticity, and age. Stay tuned!